Share this page

Backbone of the Economy

 

From Efficiency Comes Excellence

When it comes to journeys, you often find more than you were looking for.

That’s what happened to railroads like CN at the turn of the century. Seeking efficiency and faster routes, without stopping for ticket holders to dine, they landed on the dining car.

What began as simple buffet cars evolved into moveable restaurants, attracting star chefs and refined palettes at the height of passenger rail popularity. The team at Exporail, Canada’s specialized railway museum, preserved the culinary history of Canadian railways in the pages of 100 Years of Canadian Railway Recipes.

CN’s part in railroad history features prominently in the book, demonstrating how even the tiniest details – like a garnish on a plate or the last delicate seasoning – were important. It’s the same attitude that applies to CN’s present-day service, with innovation always in mind.

While it was the search for faster travel that brought railway dining into existence, it was the search for pleasure and a memorable travel experience that transformed railway dining into something unique. Indeed, when people started to travel for pleasure and not merely by necessity, tourism – a railway invention – became a lucrative market,” Bruno Cordellier, communications officer for Exporail, says. Cordellier, along with Jean-Paul Viaud, talked to the CN team about their work. They were eager to share how railways like CN pioneered not only transportation, but Canadian cuisine.

 

 

Innovation in railway cuisine reached further than the train tracks. It improved the lives of Canadians. Making food easier to transport by rail meant creativity.

“The need for an efficient storage brought the invention, by railways, of the square bread loaf, while the need for an efficient use of time brought the invention of the pre-mixed baking powder, like Bisquick. Next time you cook some cookies with this product still sold by Betty Crocker, have a thought for the dining car chef who invented, out of necessity, the original version,” Jean-Paul Viaud, Exporail curator, says.

In 1978, CN’s journey led to a focus exclusively on cargo transport. Still, their commitment to innovation and efficiency holds true. Today, CN moves $250 billion in consumer goods annually – food included. The railroad is still a pioneer, with their CargoCool and EcoTherm technologies keeping food products fresh and moving fast.

The team at Exporail said it best when they said the need for speed and efficiency is still on the menu.

“As in the days of first class railway travel, speed does not mean sacrificing safety, nor does it mean sacrificing excellent service to offer competitive costs to customers. The same ingenious spirit that animated railway chefs to get things done fast but in a first class manner is still present in the many men and women who are the soul of railroading.”

For more information about Exporail and the cookbook, visit Exporail.org.To place a telephone order, call 450 638-1522 extension 244.

Recipe : Veal Paupiettes

The team at Exporail picked out their favourite recipe to share.

Serves 4

8 veal cutlets, sliced very thin
200 g liver pate
¼ cup of butter
2 tbsp apple juice
1 garlic clove, chopped
1 small onion, chopped
¼ cup chicken stock
¾ cup demi-glace
peas
pearl onions
artichoke hearts
salt and freshly ground pepper

Season the cutlets. Cut the pâté into eight pieces and place one on each cutlet. Roll the cutlets into paupiettes and tie with string.

Heat half of the butter in a large frying pan over medium-high heat and brown the paupiettes on all sides. Deglaze the pan with apple juice and add the garlic and onion. Reduce to medium-low heat, cover and continue cooking for 7 to 8 minutes or until the paupiettes are cooked.

Remove the paupiettes, add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Add the demi-glace and return to a boil. Remove from the heat and add the rest of the butter, stirring constantly. Adjust the seasoning, return the paupiettes to the pan and heat well. Serve with artichoke hearts, pearl onions and peas.